Secluded paradise

“The resort is a collection of bungalows and a clubhouse built along a pristine stretch of the Andaman coast, along with a more protected bay for swimming (there’s a great beach bar on this end). If you’re arriving by sea (and not by jeep from the pier) the boat drops you off in the bay, and you wade through the water onto the beach, which sets the tone for the stay. Most of the baans are open air, as is the clubhouse, and you wake up and fall asleep to the sound of waves, the wind, crickets (or whatever the local variant), lizards, birds, and monkeys. Likewise, although the west-facing beach doesn’t have any lounge chairs or umbrellas, we were often the only people sitting on our towels under the shade of palm trees, watching scuttling crabs and the receding tide. It truly is designed to bring you as close to nature as possible without actually camping on the beach.

The people at the resort are all lovely – Massi, Duang, and all the folks who worked in the clubhouse and the bar are professional and friendly. A special thanks to P’Wam, the head chef, who gave me a great cooking class. The food is uniformly delicious, fresh, and varied a lot from day to day. We were there for four days and didn’t see the same dish twice at dinner. Breakfast is plentiful. Everything, from the food to the drinks, was fairly priced and great value considering how difficult it must be to provision the place.

A few things that might be helpful to know before going:

The waves on the long stretch of beach are quite wild and we didn’t find it possible to swim, but it’s great for strolls and lying around. If you’re going in peak season with kids, don’t count on being able to hang out at that beach with them. The bay side was quiet when we were there (in mid December, we felt we had the run of the place) but I can imagine it getting quite crowded around Christmas.

The mosquitos and black flies are no joke. I showed up without any DEET and had to buy some immediately, and use it constantly, and even then I was bitten. If you tend to attract bites, plan on covering up and using DEET in the morning and evening. In retrospect I wish we had gone for a beachfront baan as they probably had fewer bugs than ours, which didn’t get as much breeze.

Our baan was beautifully maintained and felt very private, with an outdoor bathroom and decks. Note that the water is from a well and gives off a strong sulphurous odour, which keeps showers short and eco friendly.

All in all, a truly special place that runs seamlessly despite its remoteness and the encroaching jungle and sea around it. We enjoyed our time there and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it or go back.”