Charming and peaceful

Although we’ve stayed at Japanese ryokan many times, this was our first experience of a hanok stay, and it didn’t disappoint. Same warm welcome (with a cup of green tea and a wedge of apple), same simple aesthetics and same temptingly snug futon-like mattresses on the floor. What was different? The ondol underfloor heating, which was deliciously warm underfoot but if anything a little too hot for sleeping on, with the heat seeping up through the mattresses a little too efficiently. The gloriously-scented sauna experience. And the breakfast, which was a delicious vegetable-infused rice porridge, grilled mackerel, pickles and a bowl of fresh yoghurt with blueberries, nuts and dried fruits. The location is beautiful too, and so peaceful, with nothing more than birdsong and a cock crowing to break the silence. It was a little too cold to be able to enjoy the delightful private seating area on the veranda to the side of the building but in a week or two that will be a lovely place to enjoy an evening drink (bring your own!) or a morning cuppa. Thoroughly recommended