“At least once a year we make our way here.
We do that because the service is impeccable (no hovering but everything appears exactly when you need it).
The food is inventive yet grounded. (Yes, there are things you might call “”molecular”” but they don’t abuse it or make it silly)
It reflects local culture in interesting ways. (Every year they introduce me to something in Thai cuisine I was completely unaware of. This always results in my seeking it out in street carts or local restaurants later. Khao Soi, Khao Chai. Moo Palo).
The win list is brillliant.

This is not cheap ( by Thai standards), but would stand up to any NY, London or Singapore 5 start.

Do NOT miss this. And stick your neck out if they have a la carte (they didn’t this trip – it was a wonderful fixed menu). For example. Pork Blood Chocolate pudding. Sounds scary. It’s heavenly. You only live once and that should be well fed.”