It may be unpretensious, ethical, and eco-friendly – but don’t presume for a moment that Sanak Retreat isn’t as beautifully designed and sumptuous as a high end hotel. Forged by the friendship between a local Balinese and a French businessman, the beauty of Sanak Retreat is the loving thought that has gone into every detail. It’s the simple things after all that mean so much – the sweet sounds of the rice fields as dusk falls, the sensuous vivid green that surrounds you when the sun rises, the joyful bubbling of the river that runs through the property, the cool mountain air (and no mossies). The beautifully crafted timber villas are decorated with Indonesian textiles and wooden furnishings assembled by an astute collector, giving each room a sense of personal intimacy, and wifi and digital facilities are cutting edge. Local coffee and teas are generously provided. Every standing point has a view over the undulating highly oxygenated valley clear of both modern buildings and any hint of traffic noise. The retreat is deeply immersed in the local community, running a successful plastic recycling project with village children. And the restaurant offers a world class menu, including an extraordinary lemongrass creme brulee and a fine wine list. They will even bake you gluten free bread and pizza with a little warning, but local seafood is also fresh and delicious. There is a gentle, connected sense of calm and beauty here that you will be hard pressed to experience anywhere else in Bali. The spa facilities and private dining gazebo were created by die-hard romantics. And yet nothing is tizzy or florid. Good taste after all, is worth its weight in gold – or rice. And with several pools and lots of local treks, this is also a great place to holiday with children.