There is really nothing to fault with Rakkojae. The rooms and their surrounds are quite beautiful – a pocket of timeless serenity in this busy city. The service is perfectly judged – always helpful, never intrusive. Both the Korean and Western breakfasts were good and substantial. We found it wonderfully quiet but, given thin walls/doors, this does require guests to be deeply respectful of others. This is not a place for loud voices or, fortunately, young children. Some reviewers and travel sites recommend one night in an hanok – this does not do the experience justice or allow you to even come near appreciating the essence of the place. We stayed 4 nights which felt about right, Even so, moving on to our next accommodation – a top-end Western-style conference hotel – was remarkably jarring.